Making of an Accurate Hole with a Boring Bars

Fine-Tuning a Bandsaw
Vibration and wandering cuts are signs your bandsaw needs a checkup
by Robert Vaughan
Check the crown and drive train—To see whether a bandsaw needs its wheels crowned, you don’t have to remove the wheel. First remove the wheel guards, and back off the blade-guide components. Install a -in. blade, and set the tension normally. Adjust the tracking so the blade stays in the middle of the tire when the wheels are turned by hand. With a scrap of wood, push on the back of the blade using the same kind of force you’d use for cutting wood (see the photo at right). Hold the block in place for three or four revolutions of the blade, and then release the pressure against the blade and turn it a few more times.
If the blade’s position on the tire surface doesn’t change even though the blade deflects slightly from the pressure of the wood block, then the crown is in good shape. If the band moves off the center position under pressure and returns when pressure from the wood block is released,the crown is showing signs of wear but is still functional. If the blade moves and doesn’t return to its original position, then crowning is needed. You can do this yourself (see FWW #95, pp. 50-53).
Tires need replacing from time to time. Most machines that have less than a 16-in. capacity use a rubber-band type of tire. Larger machines may have tires of a specialized configuration; some have a fitting groove in the middle of the wheel’s surface. When ordering replacements, note your saw’s model number; I’ve seen different tires used on similar models. While you’re in the machine’s innards, examine the saw’s pulleys. Those that are worn or bent can cause vibration. Worn belts develop knots at the factory joint, creating a bumping sensation. Replace these inexpensive items when they show signs of wear. And check all bolts and setscrews for tightness.
More:http://vintagemachinery.org/files/PDF/FAQ/110124076.pdf